Sand & Beachballs - A Samui Overview of Beaches and Towns
Koh Samui is the 3rd largest island in Thailand, however boasts the second in popularity for tourism giving way to the eastern shores largest island of Phuket. Idyllically located within the gentle waters of the Gulf of Thailand, also known as the Gulf of Siam, this beautiful tropical paradise has been charming its visitors since the first exploring tourists arrived in 1971. Samui was originally established as a coconut plantation with the body of the island basically divided into beaches, each one maintaining its own special atmosphere and attraction. Its hinterland consists of majestically forested hills of limestone and granite, and the shoreline is made up of countless palm-fringed beaches and bays.
For decades, holidayers to Samui have been rewarded with a tranquil tropical retreat featuring white-sand beaches, a sapphire-blue sea, an abundance of tantalising Thai cuisine, and most importantly an extraordinarily warm and friendly native people. Koh Samui is 21 kilometres at its widest point and 25 kilometres at its longest, taking only about an hour to drive around the island’s ‘Ring Road.’ This newly developed major road circumvents the island, while smaller roads track off to various areas of attraction and accommodation. There is something for everyone on Samui. Sophisticated retail outlets and a buzzing nightlife give way, for those with a sense of adventure, to the dramatic scenery and remote natural retreats still found within the interior. Rice paddies, jungle mountainsides, and the never-ending coconut plantations remain to this day, the beauty of Koh Samui.
A 50-kilometre ring road skirts Samui's coastline, giving ready access to all beaches and the little administrative centre of Na Thon, a compact beachside huddle of houses, shops, restaurants and small hotels. The best form of transport is a motorbike which can be readily hired. This gives the freedom to explore at your leisure, although mini buses do ply the main routes.
Whether you get around Samui by feet, elephant, motorcycle or car, it will takes about an hour to drive completely around the island, if you don't stop along the many beaches or take to some of the side tracks. A couple of rough trails cross the mountainous interior, but this is strictly 4WD or motorcycle territory. You will find a wealth of natural beauty and cosmopolitan luxury along the way. There are many attractions places and beaches where still remains covered with coconut gloves, rice paddies and forest.
Chaweng Chaweng is the longest and most popular beach for tourists on Samui. Sporting the resemblance of Fort Lauderdale mixed in with the nightlife of Mardi Gras, Chaweng is the hangout location for those who wish to mingle on the beach, and experience the vendors of the island. It is also the largest tourist centre, boasting hundreds of hotels and bungalows that stretch out along its fine white sands, as well as reaching far inland. 5 Star luxury resorts share the space with more economical accommodation choices, along with a 5-kilometre street of stalls and shops that sell everything Thailand is famous for. Prices are a little higher here than in other areas of the island, but the range of choices in food, accommodation and entertainment is impressive, making this beach and its surroundings, the centre of activity for many visitors.
Lamai Lamai has often been referred to as Samui’s second beach, but do not let this sway you to not add it to your list of locations to visit, as there are many who believe it has a greater beauty than that of Chaweng. The waters are excellent for swimming and the beaches and streets are less crowded. The southern end of the bay features elegant granite boulders while the beach itself seems endless. The nightlife in Lamai tends to be slightly more docile than in Chaweng, but it hosts some excellent restaurants and bars scattered along its strip. Accommodation options here range from high-class resorts to basic bungalows. The surrounding area notably hosts some of the islands best spas and health resorts available. One of the island’s feature attractions of Grandmother-Grandfather Rock is located on its southern tip.
Big Buddha Beach If your stay is brief, Big Buddha offers convenience due to its close proximity to the airport, as well as to boats chartered for Koh Phangan and Koh Tao. The resorts on this beach range from top end boutique quarters to budget bungalows, most offering a relaxed beachside atmosphere that may make you wish to extend your stay. Prices for accommodation and provisions remain reasonable, and there are a growing number of fine dining options to compliment the local Thai restaurants and beach bungalow cuisine. Facilities and services are abundant along the main road,
Mae Nam Accommodation along the sedate beaches of Mae Nam range from cheap bungalows to top end resorts. The beach itself is a huge horseshoe of soft sand that offers a spectacular view of the neighbouring island of Koh Phangan. There are a number of good local restaurants and businesses along the beach, as well as located on the main ring road. Mae Nam is home to many of the island’s residential developments with a growing quantity of long-term visitors and expatriates, giving the area a strong sense of community. The hills behind Mae Nam provide the location for the island’s spectacular world-class golf resort.
Bophut Bophut stands out as the only village on Samui that exudes authentic island charm. It consists of a single street lined with traditional shop-houses, many of which have been converted into restaurants, sales shops and guesthouses. The distinct designs of the beachside dining sector, as well as the chosen cuisine that is available, have created an exceptional Mediterranean atmosphere. Bophut is expanding constantly, generating new wining and dining options every year. Despite its growth, the essential seaside appeal remains, making it one of the island’s most attractive locations.
Lipa Noi and Taling Ngam These beaches have seen the least amount of change of any area on the island. The romantic coastline overlooks the spectacular Five Islands just south of Nathon. Here Samui’s coast draws out into a series of bays that overlook the spectacular Angthong Marine Park, offering the most idyllic locations to watch the sun set into the sea. This coast retains excellent seafood restaurants scattered amongst the beachside bungalows and the decadent resorts, making Lipa Noi and Taling Ngam undoubtedly two of the most popular areas for dining and choice of accommodations. For some alternative enjoyment, rent a jeep and explore the many side roads and small bay areas that make this one of the islands most attractive coastlines.
Hua Thanon The Muslim fishing village of Hua Thanon offers a handful of seafood restaurants, but its main attraction lies in the ancient cultures of the local fishermen. Intricately painted wooden boats are used to this day to catch and deliver fish directly to the local markets. The beach is a working environment and not very pleasant, but take a stroll through its market and capture a glimpse into the lives of one of the island’s original communities. Beyond Hua Thanon, the southern coast offers some of the most unspoiled natural scenery on Samui. You will find quaint local villages and coconut plantations that have endured the test of time. The pace of life here remains as it has been over the past 50 years, or more.
Nathon This is the island’s main administrative centre. All government offices, banks, as well as the main ferry pier are located in Nathon, making it the most important place for communication with the Thai mainland. You will find shopping less expensive here, but also less varied than in Chaweng or Lamai. The ring road stretch that passes through the town of Nathon holds the majority of the shops available, and many restaurants and hotels reside close to the pier for those travelling to or from the nearby port of Donsak, near Suratthani. Nathon also boasts a number of original teak shop-houses, lining the quiet middle roads, showing the more traditional, Chinese influenced, Samui life. Any major local events, ceremonies or celebrations are held in the car park in front of the main pier in Nathon. A nightly food market establishes itself here regularly, giving visitors their first taste of the delights available on Samui.
Na Muang Waterfall Half way between Hua Thanon and Nathon, in the southwest of the island, the Na Muang waterfall is easily accessible and popular with visitors of all ages. There is a large pool at the base of the waterfall that’s perfect for bathing, although sharp rocks are hidden beneath the surface so caution is advised. A small souvenir market leads to the falls, and there is also Elephant trekking
Na Muang 2 Waterfall Situated close to the first Na Muang waterfall, a sealed road leads off the main island ring road to the higher Na Muang 2 falls, which can be accessed on foot via a rocky path that leads up the mountainside, and brings you to the base of what many consider the most spectacular waterfall on the island. Elephant treks also leave from here.
Hin Lad Waterfall Popular with Thai visitors, these high falls cascade down the hillside just south of Nathon. The climb to the top is quite steep and takes around forty minutes, but once there you are treated to a truly tropical experience with roaming jungle scenery, and the spectacular power of the falls. There is an interesting forest temple at the base of the falls accessed by a small bridge.
Hin Ta and Hin Yai These two strange rock formations are known as Grandmother and Grandfather because their shapes resemble male and female genitalia symbols. The stones are popular on island tours, and attract local as well as foreign day-trippers. The road leading to the rocks is lined with some interesting craft stalls, with products made from both mango and coconut palm wood. The rugged peninsula, with waves crashing onto the rock base, makes for some great photographs. The rocks are located to the south west of Lamai, and there are signs posted from the ring road.
Overlap Stone On the opposite side of the ring road from Hin Ta, Hin Yai, not far past Lamai, a huge rock sits precariously on a cliff top high above the coast. It’s a steep walk from the main road to the top, but the views are superb. Remember to take plenty of water. The steep ascent is not recommended on a scooter.
The Samui Hinterland Small roads and dirt tracks criss-cross the island, some of these offer a needed escape from the heat and bustle of tourist-ville. Turn into some of the small roads in Mae Nam, and you will soon find yourself surrounded by wide areas of coconut plantation with water buffalos grazing in the shade, and egrets flitting beneath the palms. Higher still the vegetation turns to tropical forest, and the views from the mountain tracks are spectacular to say the least. Inland trips on mountain bikes, or with organised 4WD tours, offer an appealing insight into the wilder side of Samui’s natural heritage.
Koh Taen This small island off Samui’s southern shore has excellent hiking trails through some of the regions most attractive coastal forest. The island is only partially inhabited, although there are a couple of basic bungalow operations, and snorkelling trips that are popular around the inshore coral reef. Long Tail boats leave from the small fishing village of Thong Krut on Samui’s south coast. According to local villagers dogs cannot survive on Koh Taen. This is probably because of high-frequency calls of bats that populate the caves and tree tops there, although some blame the island spirits.
Ang Thong National Marine Park This vast archipelago of mostly uninhabited islands lies to the west of Samui, and offers some excellent snorkelling, diving, kayaking and trekking possibilities. The spectacular Emerald Lake is one of the main attractions, and various companies offer one-day speedboat and slow boat tours to the islands. This is one of the best places to experience Thailand’s natural oceanic beauty, and to appreciate what Samui would have been like before the tourism boom.